There is always someone new coming around reimagining the way you think, the way you see the world. They could be teachers, friends, lovers. They could be politicians, Music, a piece of literature. For many of us its clothing and the way we dress. We look to trend to trend, from color to monochrome. And then there are designers who have the capability to change the way we construct the ideas of how one is supposed to dress. During my time flowing between severe cold, to champagne lounge at Montreal’s Fashion Week I was able to witness some of these thread muses myself. Some of Montreal’s youngest and freshest new designers took on a new venue at L’Aresenal this week with huge artistic breath of fresh air. Anastasia Lomonova, UNTTLD, and Pedram Karimi are artists fusing fashion, video, and theatrics to create a show that takes you in from the moment you press play to the last bow.
Anastasia Lomonova is venturing quickly on to the radar of eager fashion slaves of all demographics and industries. An obvious positive influence from design friends the boys of UNTTLD who ended last seasons fashion week in a show together along with LYN. Lomonova new collection grew right from the earth with an obvious influence from tribal cultures. These feminine warriors rubied eye makeup and foreheads, paired with wooden, coined, dreads, and other natural accessory pieces specifically made for the show chattered throughout the room.
Expected was the beautiful draped pleated techniques she has been known for since she splashed on to the Semaine de Mode runways a few seasons ago. Now creating more artistic pieces made of full bear like fringe, from the dresses, to the shoes, to head pieces covering the models faces. Hues of dirt, fire, sand, and sky blue. One of the best bridges of organic artistry and keeping the day-to-day person unafraid to take risks with stand out piece the petaled gown in fiery red. I would kill for a pair of the fringed shorts and sleeves, the dreaded bracelets, every necklace, grey draped dress, and blue jackets.
The boys of UNTTLD, José Manuel St-Jacques and Simon Belanger have had quite the year. Creating future trends on the FMDM12 stages, collaborating on a piece, Nightbox, for Les Ballets Jazz de Montréal, and now showcasing a full SS13 collection for Montreal Fashion Week. These avantgardian artists have made the next level evolution in their most marketable ready to wear showcase to date, and in such a divine way.
As most of my favorite shows they utilized their space with dramatic beautiful projection to start the show. Although referencing Asian cultures can come off repetitive and caricatures as you picture prints and kimonos but this collection gave a sleek, modern interpretation of Kabuki, a classical Japanese dance-drama. Billowed black gowns and capes were born for the wind manipulating the complete shape of the model donning them. A continuation of sheer fabrics reminding you that beaming sun and black do mix. Long sleeves reminiscent of straight jackets, flowey crinkled masculine silhouettes, cropped kimono tops, soft leathered pieces added the strong signature edge. The introduction of on trend hunter green, whites, and the stand out pieces of copper which were turned into the end of floor length dresses, as full gowns, as crinkled skirts and tops.
A romantic poem singing through the art of war.
Pedram Karimi is at the beginning of a long career.You might remember him from DYDH Productions‘ official launch of Mews back in Janurary and then launching his first collection in April. This Iranian genius has lived in Austria, Schooled in London, and finishing off graduating from Lasalle College which helped him earn 2nd prize at 2011 Telio design contest. This time for Karimi’s seasonless Spring Summer 13 collection there was color! A departure from the usual black and whites used in the first collection, which were still very present, a beautiful coral was added in geometric oversized tees, styled with very Pedram white and coral caps.
The androgyny rang throughout which is part of the inspiration for all of his clothes in general as it is all about the attitude of the person wearing the garment that transforms each look. One of my favorite shows and I am not just being bias. The introduction of the black lace, the shiny “latex” jacket created from interior design fabrics. The coral smudges under each models eye, a la Danik’s red look from SMM Jour 2, brought a youthful new generative urban vibe further styling this collection amongst a commercialized yet simple avantgardian punk.
The videography done By Andy Long Hoang transformed the intimate space preparing us for the Semaine De Mode debut and further displaying the clean simplicity of one of Montreal’s rising stars.
Pedram Karimi. Period.